Volcano Watching in Montserrat, West Indies
Live volcano sparks adventure tourism in a tropical paradise
Feb 28, 2009
Prior to the late 1990s, the southern hills of this mountainous 39-square mile island offered visitors the delights of a tropical rainforest, including hot springs, dense foliage, crystal-clear streams and a multitude of exotic species. But then the Soufriere Hills volcano roared to life in 1995 and by 1996 had begun burying the main city of Plymouth, the airport, and much of the southern end of the island in volcanic ash. This area is now the Exclusion Zone where people are prevented from entering because the threat of pyroclastic flows and ash falls continues to this day. The most recent explosion was in early January 2009, when an ash cloud blew 35,000 feet into the atmosphere, pyroclastic flows moved down into the valleys previously buried, and much of the island was covered with ash and small rocks.
The northern half of the island remains much as it was, with extinct volcanoes providing a tropical eco-system that is home to unique species of birds, animals and plants. The main town was moved to Brades, a new airport was opened in 2005, and life continues for those hardy 9,000 residents who chose to remain.
Exploring the Volcano
The Montserrat Volcano Observatory, the organization charged with monitoring and studying the volcano, is the place to begin exploration. Located in Flemmings, the headquarters offers a Visitor Interpretation Center with video footage of the past events and an observation station to see the mountain from a good vantage point. Anyone planning a trip to the island should check their website to see what the current threat level is before finalizing plans.
Some areas of the Exclusion Zone are open for tours, depending on the threat level. However, visitors must be accompanied by approved guides who know the area and how to respond in case of emergencies. Among the sites are houses half-buried in ash and the nearest scenic view to Plymouth, which is still inaccessible.
Another good vantage point for viewing the volcano is Jack Boy Hill, where visitors can use the observation deck’s telescopes to see the buried Bramble Airport and destroyed villages on the eastern side of the island. Many visit this area at night when the growing volcanic dome glows red, evidence of the hot lava sitting just below the surface.
Other Activities
In the northern end of the islands, hiking and bird watching are favorite activities. The Centre Hills, the home of protected species such as the rare galliwasp lizard, the Montserrat oriole and a large frog called the mountain chicken, have numerous trails tended by the Montserrat National Trust . The Trust headquarters in Salem sells trail maps and can get hikers in touch with knowledgeable guides.
Scuba divers travel to Montserrat to explore the dramatic new reefs that were spawned by the pyroclastic flows into the seas surrounding the island. Among the dive operators on the island are Seawolf Diving School and the Green Monkey Inn and Dive Shop.
Getting There
The new airport at Gerald’s welcomes daily WinAir flights from the regional hubs of Antigua and St. Maarten. Just be aware that the airline only uses 7- and 19-seater planes on a limited schedule, so seats are hard to come by and reservations should be made far in advance.
A ferry service from Antigua runs on an intermittent schedule. For the latest information on travel to the island as well as available accommodations, check the Montserrat Tourism website.
Source: Travel Adventures Leeward Islands, Hunter Publishing 2008.
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