Set on the Paraná river, Argentina's lesser-known city of Rosario is known as both the Cradle of the Flag and City of Open Doors. But why?

The history of Rosario is a colourful one. Or, in the words of Fabiana Monti, journalist for Rosario’s state newspaper La Capital, “a history of ruffians, contraband and prostitution.”

The city’s prime position on the banks of the river Paraná, along with massive foreign investment in the late 19th century, led to its development as the major port for export of agricultural produce both within South America and worldwide.

Immigration in Argentina

And with that development came foreigners in their thousands – between 1870 and 1880 an average of 3000 immigrants entered each year, almost all from Europe, and between 1869 and 1914 the population had increased by nearly a thousand per cent.

You can see the effect of this by strolling round the city’s residential streets and noting the eclectic mixture of architectural styles, ranging from imposing English mansions to fake French chateaux.

Rosario's Red Light District Pichincha

Especially fun is the up and coming barrio of Pichincha, at one time the city’s red light district and home to the notorious brothel of the equally notorious Madame Safó. Purpose built as an exact replica of a French brothel and decorated with the finest French furniture, the journalist Albert Londres exclaimed in 1927 that it was like “finding a miniature homeland when you’re far from home. Inside, everyone speaks French. The patroness is from Montmartre.”

In keeping with its history much of the building now operates (under new ownership) as a motel where couples can discretely rent a room for a few hours, but the older section has been designated a site of historic interest and recently opened its doors to the public for a voyeuristic guided tour.

Cultural Influence in Argentina

But a brothel museum in a thriving multicultural barrio is not the only mark left on the city by its immigrant population. Many settlers, arriving from Italy, Spain and Eastern Europe and adapting quickly to the humid climate and rapid development of the area, kept their traditions alive in food, drink, dancing, and even speech. Colectividad is the term now used to refer to these groups of fifth and sixth generation immigrants who, although Argentine born and bred, retain the shared culture and identity of their ancestors.

Fiesta de las Colectividades: Celebrating Immigration

The Fiesta de las Colectividades is a chance for these groups, this year representing 38 separate regions, to share their pride as well as food, drink and dancing with the estimated million Rosarinos and visitors that attend during the ten-day festival period.

With spectacular free firework displays on the first and last days, a carnival-style procession complete with Rosarina queen and two princesses, and a jazz festival and other events running alongside the Fiesta, the city is a hive of activity and public celebration.

Argentina's Patriotism and National Pride

There is a slight paradox, however, in that the whole festival takes place directly underneath the most imposing of all patriotic symbols – the Monumento Nacional a la Bandera, or National Monument to the Flag. It was here, in 1812, that General Manuel Belgrano first designed the Argentine national flag, taking his inspiration from the clear blue Rosario sky. The 70m temple-like building, with its eternal flame and accompanying marble tower, represents a striking reminder of Argentine national identity.

Rosario, as the state newspaper La Capital’s motto drives home to all its inhabitants, is officially the Cuna de la Bandera, or Cradle of the Flag.

Rosario's History of Double Identity

So Rosario is proud to be known by two epithets – Rosario, Cuna de la Bandera and Rosario, Ciudad de Puertas Abiertas. Rosario, Cradle of the Flag and Rosario, City of Open Doors. Both names refer to the same sunny, open prosperous city, the same inclusive, permissive, fun-loving people. Join them, for the festival or at any time of year, and you’ll understand just how they pull this off, and why.

Rosario Tourist Information

Rosario’s helpful tourist information office is located on the Costanera between Av. Belgrano and Buenos Aires, and can be contacted at +54 341 480 2230 or by email. There is a small information kiosk at the main bus station.