Guatemala packs a lot of history, culture, and scenery into its 109 square kilometers. There's a reason it's one of Central America's most popular tourist destinations. You could easily spend two months there without running out of things to do and see. Here are some highlights of a trip to Guatemala.
An absolute must are the magnificent Mayan ruins of Tikal in the north. The island town of Flores is a great base for a visit to Tikal. It's also possible to get a room near the Tikal site, but options are limited.
For shopping, check out the outdoor market in the highland town of Chichicastenango. This is a functioning market where residents shop for their day-to-day needs, but it's also great for souvenirs, especially those distinctive Mayan textiles. Bargaining is both acceptable and necessary - prices asked of foreigners can be wildly optimistic. Don't be afraid to offer a lower price, but do consider the likely economic disparity between yourself and the seller before you lose your composure over a few cents. Market days are Sunday and Thursday. There are also plenty of other markets in Guatemala to visit.
With a reputation for clear Spanish, Guatemala is a well established center for Spanish language study, whether a casual one-day refresher, an intensive eight-week course. The Spanish colonial town of Antigua is the most popular place for this, with its cobblestone streets and lovely central park. But many students insist that the less-touristy town of Quetzaltenango, commonly known as Xela ("shayla") is better for immersion.
From Antigua, it's possible to take a day trip to climb the active Volcán Pacaya. Yes, you might see lava! Wear closed shoes! If that's not enough volcano for you, you can also climb Volcán Agua, Volcán Acatenango, or Volcán Fuego, all visible from Antigua. It's safest to do these climbs with a tour operator.
Formed by the collapse of a volcano, Lago de Atitlán is a vast lake of shifting colors and moods. Several unique towns cling to its shores. Panajachel is the most developed, having been a hippie-tourist destination since the 60's. Sometimes called Gringotenango because of its high concentration of ex-pats and tourists, it's crowded and not that attractive. However, it's another great place to stock up on souvenirs, and it's an easy jumping-off point to some of the more relaxed Lago de Atitlán towns. Check out Santiago Atitlán for a Mayan small town vibe, San Pedro la Laguna for a chilled-out backpacker vibe, or San Marcos la Laguna for a spiritual vibe.
Reachable only by boat (though not an island!) Livingston is home to the African-descended Garifuna people, who speak Spanish, English, and Garifuna, and have created a uniquely blended culture. Seafood lovers must try the coconut-based tapado, a hearty Garifuna stew brimming with fish, shrimp, crab, and plantain.
Catch the boat (lancha) to Livingston from the town of Rio Dulce, and bring a camera because the views along the river are amazing. Look out for the houses on stilts and the several-hundred-year-old graffiti.
While distances in Guatemala are not great, the roads can be rough and winding and the busses can be old. For a longer trip, such as Guatemala City to Flores/Tikal, consider a luxury bus (eight hours overnight) or flying. But for shorter trips, the "chicken bus" is king. These are old American school busses, or sometimes newer busses made in the same style. They're lavishly painted and decorated, but keep in mind that they are sized for schoolchildren.
It's on the chicken busses that the people of Guatemala will literally cuddle up to you and give you a taste of their lives, to a soundtrack of blaring cumbia, reggaeton, or American pop music. On the chicken bus, you're in the heart of Guatemala. Smile and relax.