Argentina's quintessential gaucho town goes wild each November to celebrate their Día de la Tradición (Day of Tradition). Go there to join in the fun.

Where to Celebrate Argentina's Día de la Tradición

The Día de la Tradición is a national holiday throughout Argentina on the 10th November, but San Antonio de Areco is really the place to be if you can find a place to stay.

As the centre of celebrations, the town draws foreign tourists and Argentines alike from all corners, and is usually packed out all week. It’s a slap-up feast of a festival, an orgy of indulgement, a near-parody of all that Argentines love, and love to boast about, not just in the rural corners of the pampa but throughout the cities and the capital itself.

Argentina's Gauchos

The central character in all the action is the gaucho, and to really appreciate the meat, the dancing, the handkerchief-waving and equestrian acrobatics you’ll need to bone up on a bit of the history of this rough, tough, real man of a man. If you're in Buenos Aires, pop along to the Feria de Mataderos to see him in Sunday-afternoon style action.

The yearly festival of the Día de la Tradición usually takes place the weekend before the 10th November, but do confirm this nearer the time as it is postponed to the following weekend in case of rain.

Day of Tradition Feast and Parade

Sunday’s huge public asado (tickets from any tourist information kiosk) is preceded by a huge public parade through the town’s delightful main square. A really huge parade, that is, of several hundred men, boys, and the odd small girl from nearby fields and faraway regions, all dressed to the nines in their best Sunday gaucho gear and all expertly controlling beautifully groomed horses with ornate leather and silver bridles.

When you’ve clapped till you can clap no more, spurred on by an enthusiastic mayor with a microphone and a national flag, and you think it’s all over and must be lunchtime soon, there come the tropillas of untamed horses, each group led by a single expert rider, and the ornate chariots of ruddy faced girls in huge skirts and lace ribboned hair. It’s an amazing sight for anyone, but particularly for anyone keen on all things equestrian, as according to the locals these horses and their apparel are some of the finest that can be seen in the whole of Argentina.

Throw in a marching band dressed immaculately in white, some local children dancing gato in the corner, and a host of popcorn sellers trundling through the clapping crowds and you’ll wonder why this isn’t called a carnival – the atmosphere of national pride and cheery circumstance is almost as palpable as the asado you’re about to feast on.

Eating and Drinking in San Antonio de Areco

The huge public feast on Sunday afternoon charges a small fee that includes entry to the Parque Criollo afterwards for displays of horsemanship, but all other events and the Friday and Saturday asados have free entry. It’s a much more intimate, acoustic atmosphere on Friday than on Saturday, when wooden tables are set up round a floodlit dancing space, and musicians are miked up and broadcast through huge speakers.

But on both nights there are plenty of empanadas, flame-roasted beef, and grilled chorizo on offer, all for a few pesos and, for a few more pesos, surprisingly drinkable red wine, local beer or soft drinks. If you turn up at the Parque Criollo at dinner time and there’s nothing going on, don’t despair – head back to your hotel, kip for three hours and then try again. A proper fogón doesn’t get going until at least 10.30pm, and the musicians won’t even be tuning their guitars until well after midnight.

San Antonio de Areco: Getting There

Hotel accommodation is still rather thin on the ground in the town, so book early if you want to come to the festival, or even at the weekend. A very good option is to stay with local families (the tourist office can help), who, although English is usually limited, are wonderfully warm and welcoming.

There are regular buses from Retiro in Buenos Aires (Chevalier runs hourly, AR$17 for the two hour journey), but again it’s a good idea to book your passage and return as weekend buses are usually packed out.

San Antonio de Areco Tourist Information

The town’s tourist information office (02326 453 165 or by email) is extremely friendly, and can help not only with details of upcoming festivals and events but with accommodation, activities such as horse-riding, and visits to estancias in the area.

San Antonio de Areco’s tourist information website is useful and up to date but currently only available in Spanish. Wecome Argentina is a good English language site, with listings and other useful information about the town..